Īs I understand this, a calibration on Laptop's screen (which affects Laptop only) can not have an effect to the TV (which is not connected with laptop). No, that's ok, you can't see it from distance. I don't know if the issue is (a) due to drift or (b) the meter not being overly accurate to begin with, or (c) both, or (d) an issue with the software or how you're using it. These products are in use for more than 10 years and are in harder environments. We use color sensor chips in our products and never heard the Bayer pattern would change so rapidly. Rather strange it should change so rapidly and fast. I just found the date on package, 03/2016 - so just 3,5 years old. I don't know what, if anything, you're doing wrong. How these drift is anyone's guess - they do not drift in the same manner. Last edited by star on Sun 4:39 pm edited 1 time in totalĥ years is pretty old. So, to summarize: You can't see that I am doing something wrong? That colorimeter gets some faked data? If you have some experience - would it be typical that red fades and blue gets stronger.[ I can imagine a slight drift over the time, but such a massive one -so that it is visible? Strange. It is from 03/2016 - so 3,5 years and has been already in its original package. Support our site by using our affiliate links. ![]() How old is your Spyder5? How was it stored? If it's old it may also have drifted. Every Spyder meter before the newest SpyderX is not recommended as many tend to not be very accurate. Thanks, and especially for the developer and community for this great tool. In setup is a calibration of Colorimeter mentioned, but don't know how to do and where to get data from.Īnd, second issue: It seems that gamma is extremly low, can this be true? Something else that I can take as reference to check the colorimeter? Is my colorimeter damaged? What chances I do have to debug this. But - suprise - the image at TV is reddish. So I adjusted the 90% as example to be neutral. Although I think it is not to far away from beeing neutral I know that eye is not a good instrument for color. Spyder tells me it is far to blue and to less red. I did the initial reference measure (see picture). Sat-Receiver that can play images with grey scale images 0.100%). HCFR running at a Windows Laptop with an "Spyder 5" and latest HCFR Software. The printer is new, and I'm just getting it set up.I did the calibration with following setup: I've previously ordered prints online, and have often been disappointed when the pictures were way too dark. Areas that showed up on my monitor as varying degrees of grey would come back to me as solid black in the printout. I'm fairly sure this was a problem with the service and not the files or my monitor, as the file had information that obviously wasn't showing up on my prints. ![]() I'm not pro, I think I would barely qualify as a hobbyist. However, I don't want to screw up too much with my own printouts. I'm still in the process of setting up the printer (every step of the way, something else gets in the way or needs done, like firmware update for the wireless router I'm going to have it connect through).įirst thing I wanted to do was to calibrate my monitor. I was attempting to do it by eye, which depending on your commitment is either fine or sacrilege (seriously, it's like going on a John Deere forum to ask a question about a small lawn mower, you will get twenty people answering that what you really need is a full tractor and anything less is not worth it). Now I can get my gamma set to 2.2 dead on (tweaking the individual color gammas in Nvidia control panel), using the image. The worry I have is with color saturation and brightness/contrast. There is a wide range of settings where the black level and white saturation tests "pass". The first time I calibrated the monitor, I felt the color saturation was WAY too high, and had originally turned down the digital vibrancy in the Nvidia control panel.
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